PART IV: The 158-year-old Jewish Synagogue
Burma was once the home to a vibrant community of Jews numbering over 2,500 at its peak prior to WWII. I had heard about this synagogue for some time and had wanted to visit. One afternoon while looking at a map I was surprised to find that it was located one block from the Whitehouse where I was staying.
Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue is the last remaining Jewish house of worship in downtown Yangon and Burma’s only synagogue. It is a relic of Burma’s colonial times and was built for the large number of Jews arriving from the Middle East and India during that period. Today, it is sandwiched between several small Indian and Muslim businesses.
Burma’s current Jewish population is said to number 20 persons. As a result of this and the absence of a permanent rabbi, religious services are rarely held anymore. The building is lovingly maintained by Moses Samuels. His son Sammy runs a tourist agency and will give a tour if he is around (he was).
The ‘Bimah’ or pulpit
Of the 126 Torah scrolls that once resided here,
these silver containers hold the two remaining scrolls.
There is also an impressive display of historical photos of the many dignitaries and heads of state that visited the synagogue during its heyday. “At the time, the community donated important parts of the city’s infrastructure,” notes Samuels. “They donated local schools, libraries and hospitals. They believed that it was important to contributed to society.”
Although generations of Jewish families once called Myanmar home, most fled during the Japanese occupation and any who stayed left once the Burmese army took power in 1962. Ironically, with the recent increase in tourism, there is renewed interest in the synagogue and periodic multicultural events are being held.
According to Sammy Samuels, “For Chanukah, it was so amazing. It was a miracle seeing Jewish and Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim, Christian and Bahai all sitting in one room and participating in a Jewish holiday. I think this would be unreal in other parts of the world but here it is possible. And I hope that these types of relationships will continue and grow.”
Glasses used for the Kiddush or the blessing of the wine.
Wow! This is unbelievable, Philip. The temple is beautiful; never seen anything like it before. Thanks for sharing the history and love the last bit about people of all religious beliefs gathering to celebrate Channukah here. Amazing.
It is ironic that with the rapid recent increase in tourism, the synagogue is also getting renewed interest. A must-see for a look into a relatively unknown part of Burma’s history.